Chapter 8 - San Diego to Turtle Bay - Baja HaHa Leg 1

The Fleet started leaving San Diego Bay at around 10:15 to join the parade.  The parade started with boats anchored in Glorietta Bay and continued through the bay picking up other boats that were docked in marinas between the south bay and Shelter Island.  The official rally start time was 1100. 

Then we all headed south on the approximately 377 nautical mile run down to Turtle Bay. The weather conditions were benign (like, very little wind) and so it looked like a lot of motoring ahead.  And motoring we did. There were times each day we actually sailed, but those instances were shortlived..  Sometimes we ran on a broad reach, sometimes we flew the "kite".  For the most part, the trip was uneventful.

Thte fleet leaving San Diego.  Lots of AIS signatures.

North Coronado Island

One fishing boat towing another - no AIS and no proper day marks - it would have been the end of the line for anylone who tried to go or inadvertently went between them.

This is what it looked like most of the way. Note the dolphin in the photo behind
the yellow diesel tanks.

More dolphin.

Keeping in mind our entire crew consisted of the two of us, standing watches both day and night can be difficult. But, we made a go of it.  During the day, we sat in the cockpit and trimmed sails, played cards, listened to music, talked of future plans, and all the things we would not miss.  

Making our way down to the turn south of Cedros Island.  You can see Tazzy in the middle.

At night, we took turns tending to the boat alone in the cockpit, strapped in, of course, and knowing full well not to leave the cockpit without first waking the other. Going overboard at night is a definite bummer.  Also, the cats had to be kept inside the whole time after the sun went down.  Fortunately, we had a full moon each of the three nights we were at sea.

There is nothing like a sunset at sea.

Except for a moon rise.

Every morning, all boats had to report their position.  One could do so via email, sat phone or with an InReach.  We powered up old Starlink and reported in via email.

During the day, when all boats were still relatively close, there would be a call from the Rally Committee with information and news.  All stayed tuned to channel 69.

The HaHa goes on its own time.  The rally started at 1100, but as soon as we started, we all moved our clocks back to where they were before the time change referencing either HaHa time or Cabo time.

Again, generally speaking, the conditions were relatively calm with no more than 10-12 knots of wind.  On the third night, however, as we came to the south of Cedros Island, the shit hit the proverbial fan.  We experienced large swells 9-12 feet with wind upwards of 30 knots.  It was a difficult several hours. The waves being behind us always want to cause the boat to round up.  Then with so much pressure on the sails, a good waive could literally turn us sideways in the wrong direction and cause the boom to gibe over with a really loud BANG!!!  Then, the boat would want to go careening around in a circle to make it head to wind.  I've done that on racing boats before, but with a sizable crew to help manage the situation.  This was really hard because it was just the two of us, it was pitch black out, the wind was blowing pretty hard and the waves were really big.  But in the end, we worked like a team with Brenda acting as my eyes to see the swells and help me determine the headig to steer.  The crew and cats did well.  The inside of the boat is another story.  If it could get pitched, it did get pitched.  No serious damage, though Brenda is lamenting the crash and explosion of a bottle of Febreeze.

Full moon rising.

Finally, at around 11:00 Wednesday night, the wind completely died and the swells began to diminish.  Good thing, too, as my neck and shoulders were hurting pretty bad having to hand steer a 35 ton boat in less than ideal conditions.  The autopilot would not likely hold up too well in conditions like that.  Had we a crew of 4 or 6 like every other boat had, it would not have been much of a problem.  And at around 11:50, we turned into Turtle Bay ending the first leg of the Baja HaHa.  After a hot shower and a good amount of whiskey, we slept and awoke to a glorious new day.

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The Fleet anchored in Turtle Bay - Tazzy, too!

Much of the first day in Turtle Bay was spent resting and cleaning up.  The HaHa holds a morning net on VHF Channel 69 so all cruisers check in and hear all about what's going on this day, what broke, who got hurt, who needs what, and other generally uninteresting stories.  Listening to all the whining, it occured to me how well prepared and set up we actually are.  There were stories of mechanical, electrical, etc. failures that simply should not have happened.  I mean, we all have something.  I would not likely air my woes over the radio - just shut up and fix it.

We had fuel delivered by panga in large jugs.  We took 40 gallons of diesel having motored for 49 hours on this first leg.  The fuel delivery service is run by Gordo, though Ernesto and his son delivered it.  They were doing quite well until they over filled the tank and spilled a river of diesel all over my teak decks.  Wow!  In California a small spill like that would have generated a 5-alarm response.  Here, nobody cares.  No fuel actually spilled into the Bay, but it was close.

There are guys in pangas who run all over the Bay offering to take in garbage for a tip.  We have quite a bit as a result of all the clean up we had to do.

Later in the day, the HaHa organized a volley ball game on the beach.  Two courts were set up.  We took the dinghy to the beach.  When we pulled up close to shore, we were literally handled by five kids who took the reigns to the dinghy and helped pull it ashore.  They helped Brenda out and then pulled it up to shore to a safe spot - all for a couple bucks.  These kids worked like a machine.  One boat after another got help.

We found a comfortable place to watch the kids play and enjoyed our first cold adult beverages on the beach in Mexico.

Turtle Bay is a sheltered, natural harbor with a long history as a safe port in all weather. In 1542, Cabrillo named the bay Puerto San Pedro. In 1602, Vizcaíno renamed it Puerto San Bartolomé (a name that still appears on some charts). Japanese abalone fishermen established a colony here from about 1900 to 1920. Mexican fishermen began living here in the 1940’s. Today, Bahía Tortugas is a large town with two Pemex gas stations, a paved airstrip, restaurants, and motels. An interesting cemetery with the appearance of a miniature village is out near the viewpoint of the bay and town, to the southwest.

Bahía Tortugas, commonly known as Turtle Bay, is a coastal community on the Pacific side of the Baja California Peninsula in Baja California Sur, Mexico. It is known for its natural harbor, rich fishing tradition, and importance as a stopover point for vessels sailing between Ensenada and Cabo San Lucas.  

The bay was first identified by Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo in 1542 as Puerto San Pedro and later renamed Puerto San Bartolomé by Sebastián Vizcaíno in 1602. The area remained sparsely populated for centuries, used primarily by indigenous peoples and later by small fishing camps. In the early 20th century, Japanese abalone fishermen established a presence in the region, and by the 1940s, Mexican fishing families had begun to settle there permanently.

The economy of Bahía Tortugas is dominated by small-scale fishing, including abalone, lobster, and other marine species. While Baja California Sur as a whole benefits from tourism, mining, and salt production, Bahía Tortugas remains largely dependent on fishing and limited trade with passing vessels. Its remote location has preserved its traditional character, with few tourist facilities or large-scale commercial development.

The black tank on the roof is the "water heater" - gravity fed and solar powered.  Ha!

For sailors, the bay provides essential logistical value as one of the only refueling and provisioning points between Ensenada and Cabo San Lucas. Services are basic but critical for maritime transit.

When the HaHa is in town, it sponsors a "baseball" game between the cruisers and all the kids in town.  There is a new baseball stadium here.

The rules are unlike those binding players in the major league.  Everyone bats, everyone hits, everyone runs bases, and girls and kids are always safe.  At the end of the game (which lasts a couple hours) lots of donated baseball equipment is given out to the kids.  Fun afternoon.

That's me at the plate - El Gordo!!!  I hit the ball, but some five year old
kid snagged it out of the sky and I was out.

We had a funny lunch, or at least what turned out to be funny.  The menu said tacos and burritos.  Both looked identical but I had fish and Brenda had.....well, she is not entirely sure.  The waitress said it was "meat."  But, what kind of meat?

Brenda was totally despondent contemplating the notion that she may have just dined on Eeyore - the gloomy, pessimistic donkey with a habit of losing his tail (which is usually pinned back on by Christopher Robin) and which was a loyal friend to Winnie-the-Pooh.   Oh well.

One thing is for certain, Turtle Bay is a spectacularly beautiful place.

The Cruiser Parking Lot.

Today is our last day in Turtle Bay before we up anchor and head further south to Bahia Santa Maria. There is a planned beach party this afternoon.  

The beach party went pretty well.  All the sailors and crew generally took a panga to the beach as there was enough surf to challenge even the most agile.  These panganeros are really good.  One only gets his or her feet wet getting in and out.  They hold the boat when the waves come.  $5 per person is not a bad deal each way.

Here are some images from the beach party.

More later.  I have a fresh water leak somewhere I have to find.  I only know this because my water pump cycles about every half hour repressurizing the system.  Oh, yes,  it's the little things that hurt the most. Oh, and by the way, I found the fresh water "leak".  Not a leak at all, but a mishandling of the shower head.  You see, one has the ability to shut off the water with a button on the shower head.  Unfortunately, that is not as sound as turning off the water with the knobs.  So, although one thought the shower water was turned off, it was not and there was a small drip which, after a while causes the fresh water pump to cycle.  We didn't lose but a couple cups of water which is easily replacable with the water maker.

Bye for now.