Chapter 6 - Arriving in San Diego - Glorietta Bay

 

Starting 1/1/2025, the Port of San Diego's designated safe harbor location to drop anchor relocated due to increased recreational vessel traffic and capacity concerns within the bay system. The current safe harbor location (La Playa Cove) area has experienced overcrowding, particularly due to conflicts with permitted anchorage vessels. This change aims to alleviate congestion and improve safety for all mariners navigating our waters. The new safe harbor location will be in the Glorietta Bay Basin.The designated safe harbor location is not an official anchorage established by USCG and so all vessels are required to follow navigation/anchor light requirements per USCG Nav Rules. Care must be taken to not anchor in the channel. Due regard should be given by the mariner for the draft of their vessels and the tidal flow. Anchoring will be at your own risk. 

We had an amazing dinner at the Bluewater Grill consisting of oysters, shrinp and steak.

The Port of San Diego has always been supportive of the Baja Ha-Ha. Once again they have set aside a free ‘special event’ anchorage for exclusive use by the Ha-Ha fleet for the two weeks before the start. The special anchorage is the new safe harbor location in Glorietta Bay.  While no special permit or license is required, one must fly the 2025 Baja HaHa burgee in order to stay in this special anchorage area.

Glorietta Bay is a great place to be.  It offers a great view and close access to the famous Hotel Del Coronado. The dinghy dock is conveniently located and free.  And by the way, the pirates no longer exist in Glorietta Bay.  It's about a mile walk to town but it's flat and easy.  Coronado is very clean and shiny.  It's quiet on the weekend, but come Monday, the jets on the North Island (Navy Base) go back to flying all day and night.

On the south side of the bay, the Seals have a training facility.....and I do not mean pinnipeds.  No, these are THE Navy Seals.  We caught a glimpse of a platoon of Seals jogging with a large inflatable boat balanced on their heads - yes, while running.  Bad Ass!  Anyways....

The Hotel del Coronado, located on Coronado Island across San Diego Bay, opened on February 19, 1888. It was built by the Coronado Beach Company, formed in 1886 by E. S. Babcock, Hampton L. Story, and other investors. Architects James and Merritt Reid designed it as a grand seaside resort, boasting 399 rooms and advanced features for its time, including electric lighting.

At its opening, The Del was among the first hotels in the United States to feature electric lighting throughout the property. Its founders built their own power plant, water system, and infrastructure to support the hotel and the new Coronado community — a bold technological step for the 1880s.

During the late 19th century, elite travelers arrived by private railcar, which could be parked directly beside the hotel on a custom-built spur line. This convenience underscored The Del’s luxury status and its appeal to America’s wealthy travelers of the Gilded Age. Shortly after opening, and the hotel faced financial difficulties. Businessman John D. Spreckels eventually took over ownership, guiding it through the early 20th century.

Yet another interesting tidbit - the original interior courtyard featured lush tropical gardens with banana, guava, and fig trees surrounding a central fountain titled “Venus Rising from the Sea.” The fountain mysteriously disappeared around 1909, and its fate remains unknown to this day.

The hotel gained fame not only for its architecture—a rare surviving example of a wooden Victorian beach resort and the second-largest wooden structure in the U.S.—but also for its notable guests, including U.S. presidents, English Royalty, and Hollywood celebrities.

As the story goes, in 1920, the young Edward, Prince of Wales—later King Edward VIII—visited San Diego and attended a gala at the Hotel del Coronado. According to long-standing local legend, he may have met Wallis Simpson there, an American socialite who was at that time married to a U.S. naval officer. Although historians find no firm record of their meeting, the story endures as part of the hotel's romantic lore.

Years later, in 1936, Edward ascended to the British throne but soon faced a constitutional crisis when he sought to marry Wallis Simpson, then twice divorced. The British government and the Church of England opposed the union, leaving Edward with an impossible choice—duty to the crown or love. On December 10, 1936, he signed the Instrument of Abdication, relinquishing the throne in favor of his brother, George VI. In his farewell broadcast, Edward famously declared, 'I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility without the help and support of the woman I love.'

The episode remains one of the most dramatic moments in royal history, remembered as a story of love, sacrifice, and the enduring glamour that still surrounds both the British monarchy and the legendary Hotel del Coronado.

In 1892, a mysterious death of guest Kate Morgan gave rise to enduring legends of a haunting at the hotel, especially in Room 3327 (formerly 502).

Kate Morgan was born Kate Farmer around 1864 in Fremont County, Iowa. She married Thomas Edwin Morgan in 1885, and the couple had a son who tragically died two days after birth. The marriage deteriorated, and by 1892, Kate was estranged from her husband and traveling under assumed names, including 'Lottie A. Bernard.'

On November 24, 1892, Kate arrived alone at the newly famous Hotel del Coronado near San Diego, registering under the name Mrs. Lottie A. Bernard from Detroit. She appeared well-dressed but melancholy, telling staff that she was waiting for a gentleman who never arrived. During her stay, she was described as quiet and reserved, suffering from what she said was a stomach ailment. She spent much of her time alone and was seen writing and then burning letters. Very strange.

On the morning of November 29, 1892, Kate Morgan was found dead on an exterior staircase leading to the beach. She had been shot in the head, and a revolver lay nearby. The coroner ruled the death a suicide. Newspapers at the time referred to her as 'The Beautiful Stranger,' as her true identity was not immediately known.

In later years, questions arose about the official account. In the 1980s, researcher Alan May claimed that the bullet found in her skull did not match the gun at the scene, suggesting the possibility of foul play. Others noted that her mysterious companion, the man she said she was waiting for, was never identified, adding further intrigue to the case.

Over time, the legend of Kate Morgan took on a ghostly dimension. Guests and staff at the Hotel del Coronado have reported unexplained occurrences—flickering lights, sudden cold drafts, objects moving on their own, and sightings of a young woman in a black lace dress. These stories are often linked to Room 3327 (formerly 502), where she stayed.

Today, the story of Kate Morgan remains one of the most famous and enduring mysteries associated with the Hotel del Coronado. Whether tragic or supernatural, her presence continues to fascinate visitors and has become a defining part of the hotel’s lore.

The Hotel del Coronado was designated a California Historical Landmark in 1970 and a National Historic Landmark in 1977. Today, it continues to operate as a luxury resort and remains an architectural and cultural icon of the American seaside. Despite being a massive wooden structure vulnerable to fire and decay, the hotel has survived intact for more than a century. Extensive restorations have preserved its Victorian features, including stained glass, red-turret roofs, and wraparound verandas, ensuring the hotel remains true to its 1888 design.

Originally envisioned as a fishing and hunting retreat for wealthy investors, The Del quickly evolved into a full-service seaside resort offering dining, recreation, and leisure unmatched on the West Coast.

During World War II, the hotel housed families of military officers and contributed to the wartime community. In later years, it became a filming location for movies such as *Some Like It Hot* (1959).

From its early innovations and hidden history to its haunted legends, the Hotel del Coronado remains one of America’s most fascinating and enduring landmarks.

The Hotel del Coronado remains one of the most breathtaking coastal resorts in the world — its grand red-tiled turrets rising above soft white sand and shimmering Pacific waters. The sunsets from the veranda are spectacular, the palm-lined walkways immaculate, and the Victorian woodwork glows in warm evening light. Every corner feels steeped in both luxury and nostalgia. Yet this elegance comes at a price — the hotel’s bars and beachfront lounges are as famous for their ambiance as for their cost. Expect cocktails in the $20–25 range and wine pours well above typical resort prices, though the view and experience are easily worth the indulgence.

That was a $25.00 Mimosa!!

We spent half a day walking around on Coronado Island looking for things we thought we could use aboard.  Well, we found nothing we were looking for but came home with the backpack 20+ pounds heavier.  

We enjoyed a nice breakfast at a place called Better Buzz.  The line was out the door and it became apparent why when we enjoyed their coffee and a unique breakfast item involving hot (spicy hot) maple syrup, and a breakfast sandwich in a croissant.

Then we spent a day on the boat taking care of a variety of boat chores including cleaning the floor of the dinghy, cleaning the drip pan under the companion way stairs, gas/fuel/water can straps, etc.  Also, a chore day would not be complete without doing some laundry.  

We have a "washer-spinner" that works really well and uses very little water.  A load takes about 15 minnutes and, by the time it is done spinning, the load is virtually dry.  So, from there it goes into a bucket and then to the lifelines.  Very colorful.  But, effective.  We did all of our laundry in less than 2 hours from wash to dry.  The best part of it was.......

Well, we had to do something while waiting for our clothes to dry.  These mimosas were just as good as the one we spent $25 for at the Hotel Del Coronado.  I think we were able to buy the two bottles of champagne and the OJ for less than the price of one drink at Hotel Del.

Lots of these flying around come Monday.  Imagine getting paid to fly one of these.

We took this photo on our walk this afternoon.  It's not everyday you get to see this.

San Diego Skyline

Today, October 28, we left Glorietta Bay and moved onto a dock at the San Diego Harbor Police Dock.  We'll be here until we leave for Mexico on November 3. 

Lots to do. More later.

Chapter 5 - Mariner's Basin and a working autopilot.

 

Tazzy anchored in Mariner's Basin, Mission Bay, CA

We have been to some serious dive bars, but The Pennant Bar in San Diego (actually a short walk from the anchorage) is a new high.  The atmosphere is old Mission Bay with lots of wood and uncomfortable bar stools.  The drinks were good, and the food served out of a small kitchen in the back where you go to place your orders was exceptional.  The bar tender was also interesting - more ink than a printing press and lots of interesting jewelry, but as hard as her expression was when we walked in, she became friendly like sunshine when I recognized a song on her play list featuring Ozzy and Lenny.  Little did she realize I had been going to Ozzy Osborne shows since long prior to her arrival on earth.  So.....

The Pennant Bar (the photo is fromthe Pennant Bar Website.

Unlike the last time we anchored here, the "pirates" have not been apparent.  It's nice feeling as though one need not lock everything to a railing when leaving the boat.  Perhaps the local water cops got the message when a lot of cruisers started to complain about the large numbers of unfortunate dregs inhabiting the anchorages in otherwise derelict boats on the three day rotation - three days here, three days there, and so on, as three days is the length of an anchoring permit one can get.  Frankly, I suspect many of the derelict dregs actually obtain anchoring permits, and the cops for years have simply looked the other way.  Perhaps no more.  I heard that many have moved out of the harbor to seek shelter behind the Zooniga Jetty.  A precarious place to say the least, but there is no anchoring permit required. There are a lot of articles posted about how San Diego is getting rid of lots and lots of abandoned vessels.  Maybe these less than fortunate boaters have moved on.  Those boats rarely have MSD's and even fewer have working engines or electrical systems.  Safety and protection of the environment have to be priorities and if they can't make the grade, they endanger others.  So, move on.

THE AUTOPILOT SAGA

So, an update on the autopilot situation.  It works!  I have to extend a hero's thanks to my friend Joel at Beacon Marine Electronics.  He has always been there when I needed his guidance and advice.  I am an idiot for not calling him first.  I wasted so much time and stomach lining with Garmin Technical Support.  Those guys had me chasing shadows that did not exist.  One even suggested my equipment was dying and on the way out; that I was looking at having to replace lots of expensive parts.  Another had me moving parts and bits all over the boat in a vague attempt to equalize the magnetic field on my boat.  Joel, on the other hand, had the most effective and useful solution.  He said, "Why the hell didn't you call me first?"  In all honesty, I hated to bother him.  He made it very clear, however that that is why he's there.  To help.  Well, thank you, Joel. You and yours have consistently demonstrated the highest quality of service and professionalism, bar none, that I have experienced in the marine industry. I don't care who you are, but for whatever reason, Joel has managed to corral the best herd of marine electronics technicians around.  His guys care about what they do and how it all falls together.  They take the time.  I cannot recommend Beacon Marine Electronics enough. Customer for life! 

Marine Electronics Oxnard | Installation & Full Service Dealership

The problem is that this is the sort or experience I have come to expect from all service providers and vendores and frankly, it is the sort of experience I hope to give all of my clients.  It is in this vein that I, again, think the world of Joel, and thank him for his exceptional level of professionalism and service.

Now, on to other items of interest.  First, the Starlink mount issue is hopefully resolved.  Presently, it's the BBQ mount over which I remain sceptical.  Why?  Because, we are now using the same pole holder that we were using for the Starlink antenna; the same pole holder that kept sliding over leaving the Starlink antenna hanging on for dear life overboard.  It is configured differently for the grill, however, so, we'll see. We are using a different pole holder for the Starlink antenna now and it seems to be holding strong.  I really need to have this squared away as the Rally requires 0800 position reports and I can send them via email using Starlink.  Even were that not possible, I can still send position reports using my Garmin InReach MINI 2.

We have time to work it out.  In San Diego, we will take a dock for a few days before the start of the rally, a short distance from a chandlery that will have lots of bits and bobs at wholesale price for HaHa cruisers.  I'm sure there are some spare parts I haven't thought of yet that I will pick up.  Certainly, I should be able to put something together to make sure the BBQ stays on board.  

I have to remind myself that this cruise is significantly more than the two week rally to Cabo.  Hell, if this were only a two week deal, it would be little different from the two week cruises we do regularly to our own islands (except for the overnight sailing).  But alas, there is simply a lot more to it.

Last night was DJ night.  Brenda and I have been doing this since we first met.  It's all about playing meaningful tunes and listening to music together.  On the boat, we get comfy in the cockpit and check out the sunset and the moon, have drinks and chill to the sounds of good tunes.  

More later....

Well, we spent a day wandering around Mission Beach.  There is a lot to do there if you are inclined.  There is a place where there are carnival rides and games and a lot of restaurants and bars to frequent if you are so inclined,  It is also mostly on the beach with spectacular views.  There is also the boardwalk or bikepath that runs the coast from the Mission Bay entrance, west (or north) all the way to La Jolla.  It's a fun and lively part of the coast.

We left Mission Bay early on October 25.  Joel had assigned us homework to do.  We had to do the autotune on the autopilot to make sure the steering was sharp.  One needs very favorable conditions and a bit of open space.  So we upped the anchor at around 0830 and headed out into glassy conditions.  I didn't bother to raise the mainsail. 

Once clear of the jetty's and in deep enough water to be clear of the lobster trap markers, we engaged the autotune hoping, just hoping it would all go well.  Success! So, we turned the bow roughly south and headed for Point Loma and the entrance into San Diego.

Point Loma

Going into San Diego is always fun because it is so chaotic.  Boats moving in every direction and many seemingly unaware that there are rules governing the movement of vessels within sight of one another.  Oh well.  It simply pays to keep a sharp eye and to avoid entanglement.  Nevertheless, the sights are interesting.

The San Diego Skyline

This is a naby drydock for submarines.

This is the end of Shelter Island.

CVN 71 - USS Theodore Roosevelt getting lots of work done.

That's the USS Midway - commissioned in 194 5 as the largest ship in the world.  She is now a principal museum on the San Diego waterfront.

A couple cruise ships in port.

We are now anchored in a special anchorage the City of San Diego has set up for Ha Ha cruisers.  No permit necessary.

The Coronado Bridge

We'll be here a couple days before moving into a slip on Shelter Island for about a week.  For now, it's just chill and get ready to head south.

Chat again soon.

Oh and one last thing - it seems the "pirates" of San Diego Bay are gone.  I can tell you with no uncertainty that the atmosphere in the Glorietta Bay Anchorage is wonderful; a far cry better than the way it used to be.  Very happy.

Chapter 4 - Dana Point - Absolutely nothing happened here, or did it?

 

Dana Point is a place to experience beautiful sunsets from the west basin anchorage.

Other than that, at the moment Dana Point Harbor is undergoing a significant revitalization and redevelopment.  As such, and because nothing has really started yet, all the buildings where there once were great shops and restaurants, coffee shops and ice cream parlors, are all empty.  There is nothing there except for the few businesses adjacent to the sports fishing locale including a couple good restaurants.  Otherwise the place is dead. So, there was not much going on.

More about the Dana Point Harbor Revitalization here:  Harbor Revitalization FAQ's - Dana Point Harbor

HOWEVER.....

Upon arriving at Dana Point Harbor, we lost out autopilot calibration and noticed, as we slid west down the fairway to the west basin anchorage, that the vessel icon on our chartplotters was pointing about 90 degrees off.  While we were moving in the correct direction, the image of our boat on the screen was pointing away.  This was a problem.  So we spent the next couple of days on the phone with Garmin tech support hoping to get the situation straightened out - figuratively and literally.  

On Monday morning, we thought we had it fixed.  Well, no.  When we left Dana Point on Wednesday morning, although the icon was now pointing in the correct direction, the fix prescribed by Garmin totally screwed up our rudder angle indicator.  Now this has to be calibrated.  We spent quite some time outside Dana Point Harbor trying to recalibrate, but to no avail.  So, with the icon now pointing in the right direction, we had no ability to use the autopilot and thus had to hand steer the next 48 miles to Mission Bay where we are now anchored.  That was a long day.

While in Mission Bay, we will work on the rudder calibration and hope we can get this straightened out asap as we are leaving for Mexico on November 3 and it would be very tough for this double-handed crew to sail 24-7 for days at a time (and nights, too) hand steering.

So, nothing but sunsets and aggravation in Dana Point.  Glad to have moved on and hoping to keep moving forward.  For now, we are here in Mariner's Basin in Mission Bay.  The anchorage is like glass, although it is right under the flight path for San Diego Airport and it is a bit loud.  But, hey.....

Chat soon.

Chapter 3 - Newport Beach - a familiar place with familiar places.

 

Sailing into Newport Beach from Two Harbors was a familiar experience.  We have sailed here from there many times.  It was nice to see snow on the mountains from out at sea.

Our plan was to enter the harbor and head for the anchorage off the end of Lido Island.  Which we did.  We dropped the hook at around 2:30 p.m.We didn't do much the rest of the day.  Anchoring in NPB is always interesting because of all the activity going on around you.  All day long and even into the evening, there are boats of all shapes and sizes moving in the harbor.  When in the anchorage, it seems like you are center ring with all of it happening all around you.

The next day, we needed to pick up a pole holder for the Starlink.  So, we hopped in the dinghy and went to the back of the harbor, on the far end of Lido, to the West Marine.  Along the way, we sighted Invictus anchored in the west anchorage.  She is a beast.

Invictus is a motor yacht with an overall length of 65.5 meters (216 feet) The yacht's builder is Delta Marine from United States, who launched Invictus in 2013. The superyacht has a beam of 13.1 m (43 feet), a draught of 3.9 m (13 feet) and a volume of 1,943 GT. She can cary up to 12 guests and 22 crew members, including the ship's captain. Invictus has a steel hull and a GRP superstructure. She is powered by 2 Caterpillar Inc. engines, which give her a top speed of 16.8 kn. The yacht carries 194,192 litres of fuel on board. Invictus is equipped with amenities such as a cinema, gym, pool, elevator, and beach club, making it an ideal choice for those seeking a luxurious and comfortable yacht charter experience. Yeah, right!

We had lunch at an interesting place and then walked around a bit on Lido Island.

After lunch, we hopped back in the dinghy and cruised over to Balboa Island, one of our favorite places in NPB.  On the way there, we passed by Marina Park, the new marina (now several years old but still immaculate) in NPB.

In the early 1900's, Balboa Island was a summer vacation place. Most homes had no heaters, and were closed up in the winter. Families came down for the entire summer. Cooking was done on a gasoline stove as there was no gas or electricity. Coal oil lanterns and candles were used. The first “seawall”, a wooden bulkhead that protected part of the Island, was built in 1909. This was partially replaced by a cement barrier (cheap German cement) in 1912. Water lines to the Island were first laid in 1914.

The island grew slowly at first, but in 1916, it became part of the City of Newport Beach. In 1918 the Balboa Island Improvement Association was started (and is still going strong). The BIIA was a strong motivating force in working with the City on bulkhead repair, ferry service, a sewer system, water, gas, electricity, paved streets and sidewalks, and street lighting.

By 1921, homes were beginning to fill in the Island and Balboa Peninsula. Roads to the Newport Harbor area were still largely undeveloped, and many people still arrived by rail to the peninsula and took the ferry over to the island. Although the first Bridge from the mainland to the North Bayfront was built in 1912, it was not capable of carrying automobiles until 1929, when it was refurbished.

In 1924, the narrow bridge to Balboa Island was replaced with two lanes of wood. That bridge existed until 1928, when it was demolished to make way for a Concrete Bridge. Some of the wood from the old bridge was used to construct the building next to the “Jolly Roger” restaurant on Marine Ave. (now Wilma’s - great breakfast house). In 1929, a new Concrete Bridge was built and served for 51 years. Population grew from a little over 100 in 1929 to today’s 4,500 in winter and close to 10,000 summer renters. In 1981, the Bridge was replaced with a modern concrete structure with 9′ wide walks as it is today.

Some of your favourite war movies were filmed on the islands in Newport Harbour. John Wayne didn’t want to commute far from his Newport Beach mansion when filming the movie Sands of Iwo Jima in the 1940s, so they shot scenes on a barren island near his home. That island is now covered with luxury homes.

There is a lot of interesting history in Newport Beach and much of it is covered at the Balboa Island Museum. You can read more about it here:  Get to know about all things Newport Beach, including the local residents restaurants, shops, businessses, activities, history, events and more.

Balboa Island is a nice place to walk.  The sights include beautiful homes, interesting stores, historical places, but most importantly, frozen bananas.

One of the most pleasant aspects of a stay in NPB Harbor is the sunsets; and the way they light up the windows on the surrounding hillsides.

Newport Harbor Yacht Club

No trip to NPB would be complete without a visit to the Fun Zone and Cabos for margaritas and tacos.

On to Dana Point.